Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on